Through thick and thin, through winds, storms and pouring rain. Sounds like a declaration of love? Well, that's basically how people have been feeling about trench coats ever since their first appearance in the late 19th century.
The Invention of the Trench Coat
But let's start with the definition. A trench coat is a long, loose, double-breasted raincoat made of waterproof or water-resistant heavy-duty fabric like cotton gabardine. So it probably comes as no surprise to you that its invention is usually credited to none other than Thomas Burberry in Great Britain, known for its rainy weather, although the British brand Aquascutum would beg to differ.
Before its appearance, raincoats were mainly made from rubberised cotton, which did indeed keep the rain out, but it kept the sweat in just as much. Let's not go into details, but you can imagine that there were more pleasant olfactory experiences to be had.
And so, the trench coat, made from Burberry's gabardine (which is basically a tightly woven, weatherproof cotton), quickly rose through the ranks to become the raincoat of choice. In the beginning, the main wearers were army officers, which is also the reason why the trench has kept its military connotations up until today. When the First World War came around, the coats went with the wearers to the trenches - hence, the name.
The Characteristics (and Reasoning behind each one of them)
The first trench coats were khaki-coloured, ten-buttoned, double-breasted and tailored to the waist. Every aspect of the garment had a specific purpose. The deep pockets and long length made sure the wearer's legs were covered and essentials were kept dry. The iconic storm flap at the shoulder had the same function, making sure that rain didn't run down inside the coat.
The throat latch closed the collar tight to prevent wind and gas from entering (remember, WWI was the first war where poison gas was used on a large scale). The D-rings on the belt carried equipment such as map cases while the epaulettes held gloves, binoculars or a cap, and showed the officer's rank at the same time.
Today, none of that is strictly necessary when you're running around Kirchberg... well, except for the wind-shielding properties. But it's why the trench has aged so well: it was designed for function, and function ages better than trend.
The History Continues in Hollywood
After the war, officers kept wearing their trench coats which, in turn, remained a symbol of status and respectability. As it entered the streets though, the coat lost its exclusivity and civilians became fans. Not long after, Hollywood costume designers got hold of the staple and started incorporating it in movies.
Actor Humphrey Bogart wore one in the final scene of Casablanca in 1942, and the trench became shorthand for the cool, slightly mysterious man in the rain. Detectives, spies and reporters followed suit, and so did actresses, for example Audrey Hepburn, who gave the trench a romantic and chic quality, thanks to its appearance on her in Breakfast at Tiffany's.
How the Trench Coat Became a Classic
While most trends come and go, the trench has stuck around for more than a century now. Granted, with every fashion cycle it changes its appearance - long, cropped, oversized, belted, worn open or as a dress, made from gabardine, leather, suede or PVC. But the fact remains: the trench coat has made its way from the trenches to the red carpets to the casual civilian's wardrobe, and has become a true classic somewhere along the way.
The reason for this is simple: it was invented with a very specific function and purpose. And while the circumstances in which it's worn have changed drastically, the fact that we still need a coat to keep us dry from the rain (especially in Luxembourg), without turning us into a walking stink bomb, has remained.
So, if you're only looking to buy one single coat this "Coat Sunday", let it be a trench coat. We promise, it won't disappoint you.
Shop the Look
Ready to find yours? Browse our trench coats and the rest of our outerwear online, or come and try them on in our Luxembourg-City boutique this Mantelsonndeg weekend, on Saturday 24 and, exceptionally, Sunday 25 October.
